I’M NOT SURE why American sommeliers keep pushing Austrian Gruener Veltliner wines, which at their best taste like highly refined, slightly sweet petroleum. Oddly enough, those same sommeliers seem to love that signature aroma and taste. Not me.
Yet there are other Austrian wines that have been produced for ages and are considerably better and more interesting. One of the reasons you don’t hear much about them is that the Austrian wine industry has taken a long time to recover from a scandal in 1985, when several Austrian merchants sweetened their wines with diethylene glycol, a chemical used in antifreeze. Exports plummeted to one-fifth of what they’d been.
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