EVEN THOUGH U.S. RETAIL sales of coffee totaled $29.3 billion last year, Illycaffe SpA says, most Americans don’t know beans about the drink.

“Coffee is at least as complex as wine,” insists Andrea Illy, 43, the third-generation chairman of Illycaffe, whose grandfather, Ernesto, invented espresso in Trieste, Italy. “In America, people think of coffee as just a drink with food.”

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