Uncle Joe has left his mark on Russia's capital, but serious investment means Moscow is becoming an increasingly important centre for business travel, says Charlotte Edmond

For the unseasoned visitor, Moscow's insalubrious reputation as a haven for oil-rich but morally-questionable businessmen, gun-touting drug barons and Stalinist ideologies is probably quite intimidating.

Throw in five airports, nine main train stations, nightmarish traffic and winters cold enough to freeze your caviar and it is understandable why visiting lawyers could be a little thrown by the prospect of a business trip to the Russian capital.

Moscow's unique mix of Stalinesque monoliths and imperial architecture interspersed with a rapidly-increasing number of modern constructions makes for a strange combination. However, lawyers hardened to the Muscovite way are quick to instil the virtues of the city, both for its no-nonsense approach to international business and its impressive neoclassical architecture and vodka-soaked eateries.

Where to stay

As Moscow moulds into an increasingly Westernised venue for international business, so the number of top-end international hotels increases.

The Marriott chain alone supports five hotels in the city, although the Hotel Aurora (Petrovka St-Bld 11/20) is probably the smartest of the group. Meanwhile, former US President George Bush and his entourage favour its sister, the Marriott Grand on the lively Tverskaya Street.

Hyatt's Park Hyatt Ararat is cited by many living in the city as the most desirable place to rest your head on the company budget. Right around the corner from some of Moscow's most famous sites, such as the Theatre Square and Red Square, many of the hotel's plush rooms offer views of the Kremlin and the Bolshoi Theatre.

The hotel, which has Armenian investors, is also home to an Armenian restaurant which comes recommended – although its top-floor conservatory lounge is better located, with views over Red Square and Theatre Square.

As Denton Wilde Sapte Moscow head Doran Doeh says: "The Hyatt Park Ararat is the classiest hotel in Moscow (to my taste), done up to best Park Hyatt standards, and the rooms are charming. It also has the best Sunday brunch I have had anywhere, with unlimited champagne, cognac, etc and excellent food."

Another recommended hotel is the Ritz Carlton, which is decked out in a 19th century style and has views of the Kremlin from its position on the edge of the Red Square.

Meanwhile, CMS Cameron McKenna partner Sandra Rafferty (pictured), who splits her time between Moscow and London, also recommends the top-end Swissotel Krasnye Holmy. "It is located slightly further out from the centre, but ideal if you are arriving into town on the Aeroexpress (the express train from Domedovo Airport)," she says. "It has good amenities and transport links as well as stunning views of the city."

Where to eat

When you ask Moscow lawyers where to eat, the resounding answer is Cafe Pushkin. Owned by local entrepreneur Andre Dellos, the mock-revolution era restaurant comes complete with waiters dressed in period costume and serves top-end Russian food with a French twist. Dellos has tried to create a different atmosphere on each floor, passing from tavern, right through to a library and a rooftop cafe.

Skadden Arps Slate Meagher & Flom Moscow co-head Dmitri Kovalenko says: "Breakfast, lunch or dinner – Cafe Pushkin is still the best choice for first-time short stay. If somebody has only one day in Moscow, they can do lunch in Pushkin and then dinner at Turandot, next door to Pushkin and walking distance from [all the major hotels]."

Turandot, also owned by Dellos, is another a favourite of Doeh, who says: "The decoration is an exquisite recreation of a Louis XV chinoiserie interior on two stories, with private dining rooms (wonderful for client entertainment) off the main hall, with a quartet playing period music and staff in period clothes. The food is Chinese, Japanese and European the menu was composed with advice from Alan Yau of Hakkasan/Wagamama. A great experience."

For a business lunch Cafe des Artistes, serving Swiss food, comes highly recommended, while for breakfast meetings Rafferty recommends The Most, which does "smart, early 20th century" Russian/French food. Kovalenko adds: "For the more adventurous, a dinner at Tiflis, a Georgian cuisine restaurant, may be a good choice, but it is not walking distance from the above hotels."

Dewey & LeBoeuf partner Brian Zimbler suggests rounding off the night at Most Night Club on Kuznetsky Most, where Roman Abramovich of Chelsea Football Club fame hangs out.

What to do

For first time visitors there are a certain number of 'must dos'. The Red Square unsurprisingly falls into this category. So much so, Doeh claims it needs to be seen twice – once in daylight and once during the night.

Right next door, the Kremlin, and if time permits, the Kremlin museum and armoury, are also highly recommended.

For "morbid curiosity" John Balsdon, a Herbert Smith partner formerly based in Moscow, suggests the KGB museum, which holds a collection of memorabilia that could be straight out an old James Bond movie.

Other key sights include the Tretyakov Gallery, which contains the finest collection of Russian art, while a tour of the city's underground stations is also suggested. The heavily-used system is famed for the glamour of its stations, many of which are ornately decorated with marble and glass.

Other tips

Travelling in Moscow can be an experience in itself. The traffic in the city is notoriously bad – "allow at least an hour between meetings", Balsdon recommends. And in the winter a trip on the tram can be a little uncomfortable as they are unheated, he adds.

The weather in itself is something to be prepared for, with temperatures happily ranging from -20C to +20C.

Before taking a trip it is vital to get your visa sorted – and leave plenty of time to do it. Depending on the type of visa required, it can take up to three weeks to organise, partners advise.

"Moscow is not like Hong Kong, for example – it remains close to its roots and is still very Russian. Muscovites can be superficially surly, and personal space is not a concept they recognise. Queuing does not exist, and it is damned expensive. But it is a beautiful and fascinating place and not to be missed," Balsdon summarises.