Goat has, quite literally, been demonized. Its sleepy eyes and curved horns were thought by the medieval mind to suggest the Evil One, and its undeserved reputation for randiness made the Greeks imagine the hapless beast as the personification of lust. It was thought in biblical times a suitable symbol for bearing the sins of the whole tribe, and then later referred as a “living garbage disposal” because of its utility in clearing fields.

But in spite of so much symbolic baggage, the goat is the most widely eaten animal in the entire world—except here in the United States. That’s starting to change, though. Eat it around New York, and it’s not hard to see why.

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